Every autumn the same job comes up across Swindon. Thick, lined curtains go up for winter, and within a few weeks the pole starts to sag or a bracket works loose from the wall. In most cases the pole itself is fine. The problem is the fixing behind the bracket.
Heavy curtains are worth having. They help keep draughts out on cold evenings. They just need a pole and fixings chosen for the weight and for the wall they are going on.
Step 1: Know the weight
Weigh the curtains on bathroom scales before you choose anything. A pair of interlined or heavy blackout curtains on a tall window can weigh well over 10kg, and that load sits on two or three small brackets.
Step 2: Identify your wall
Swindon homes vary a lot, even on the same street:
- Solid brick or block with plaster. Common in older terraces. Sounds solid all along when you knock.
- Timber stud wall with plasterboard. Sounds hollow, with solid points roughly every 400mm or 600mm where the studs are.
- Dot-and-dab. Plasterboard glued to masonry with dabs of adhesive, common in newer homes. Sounds duller and more even, with a small gap behind the board.
Before drilling, always check the wall with a cable and pipe detector. Cables often run vertically and horizontally from sockets and switches, so never drill directly above or below them. If you are unsure what is in the wall, speak to a registered electrician. Electrical Safety First has guidance on finding one.
Step 3: Match the fixing to the wall
- Brick or block: quality wall plugs with screws long enough to get well into the masonry, not just the plaster layer.
- Stud wall: screw directly into the timber studs or the noggin above the window. Where the timber is not in the right place, fit a timber batten across the studs and fix the brackets to that. Plasterboard plugs alone are not suitable for heavy curtains.
- Dot-and-dab: use a through fixing that bridges the gap and anchors into the masonry behind. A standard cavity fixing only grips the plasterboard skin.
Step 4: Plan around the lintel
Directly above most windows there is a concrete or steel lintel. Concrete is slow to drill, and steel cannot be drilled with an ordinary masonry bit. The usual answer is to position the brackets above the lintel or out to each side, into brick or timber, often with a slightly longer pole.
Step 5: Support the middle
Poles longer than roughly 2 metres need a centre bracket, and poles over about 3 metres need two. A centre bracket halves the unsupported span, which reduces sag and takes strain off the end fixings. A passing bracket lets the curtain rings slide over it, so the curtains still draw fully.
Step 6: Check the details
- A pole of the right thickness: 28mm suits most lined curtains, 35mm or more for heavy ones.
- Metal curtain hooks rather than plastic ones, which can open under load.
- Finials fixed firmly so rings cannot slide off.
- A firm tug on every bracket before the curtains go up.
A note on condensation
Heavy curtains closed against cold glass can trap moist air and add to condensation on the windows. Opening them during the day and keeping the room ventilated helps.
How I can help
I'm Ian, and I run Handyman Plus Van in Swindon. Fitting curtain poles and rails is part of my carpentry work. That includes finding the right fixing for the wall, fitting battens where needed and adding centre brackets.
I'm booked in 3-hour or full-day sessions, and a few curtain poles typically fit into a session alongside other jobs on your list. It helps to send a photo of each window and the wall around it, and to let me know the width of the window and whether you already have the poles. I'm insured, DBS checked and rated 4.9 on Google, and I work in Swindon only.
Ready to get your curtains up properly before winter? Make a booking or message me free on WhatsApp on 07729 689420. For the light-hearted DIY version, see my blog post Why Does My Curtain Pole Keep Falling Off the Wall?
